I’m finishing up a DIY ground install and just the conductor from the array to the service panel cost the same as about 3 panels. It’s about a 150 meter run.
Some very rough numbers from memory:
- 20 panel + 10 microinverter bundle: $5600
- cost to ship the bundle: $700
- conductor: $450
- steel/pvc conduit for conductor sheath: $350
- strut for racking: $500
- 3” steel conduit for ground mount: $5000
- concrete and tube forms for vertical post footers: $400
- augur/trencher rental: $500
- brackets/fasteners: $600
- tools: $500
- electrician work to upgrade service panel: $2500
- electrician work for hookup and disconnect install: still TBD but I’m guessing more thousands
- time spent x my current hourly salary as a programmer: I don’t want to think about it haha
Probably a bunch of stupid little stuff I’m forgetting. Just gas to go on supply runs is probably over $100, although I always tried to batch runs with other normal errands.
The most expensive parts of projects can be surprising, at least to me. I also recently invested in my own fuel transfer pump to transport home heating fuel instead of paying for delivery. 55 gallon drums: $20 each. Pump: $200. But the most expensive part was actually the 15 meters of arctic grade fuel hose at over $400.
For sure. I've recently done my back yard with weathering steel raised beds and larger wooden privacy blocking partitions. I'm doing all the cutting and welding myself, so needed a heavy duty 220v high amp extension cord. Built my own, but the insulated copper cable for that was a pretty penny. Cutting wheels, grinding disks, and welding supplies add up in cost quick. That and all the different fasteners you need. And pity the thought of using any decorative brass or copper....
> I'm doing all the cutting and welding myself, so needed a heavy duty 220v high amp extension cord. Built my own, but the insulated copper cable for that was a pretty penny.
300V 6/3 SO cord is about 6 bucks a foot, that adds up quick! Just be glad you didn’t have to buy any pin and sleeve connectors ;)
You can save the $700 freight shipping if you live near a distributor. https://www.sunhub.com/ and https://a1solarstore.com/ both have local pickup locations and extremely good deals on panels. Rent a pickup truck (or a trailer), show up and they'll drop a palletized bundle in your bed. It's also nice because you aren't hoping the freight shipping company handled them perfectly or dealing with damage claims. I picked my panels up in New Jersey from two different places, was easy.
Depending on your local area, if you're the homeowner, you can often do most of the electrical yourself (pull permits if needed). Use ChatGPT to look up code requirements and instructions, then look up YouTube videos where professionals show you how to do it all. I think it's much less complicated than figuring out all the solar-specific stuff (tilt angles, voltages, wiring, disconnects, etc).
Sadly couldn’t. I was able to get free shipping from a distributor in San Antonio to Tacoma, then transshipped it to Alaska with Carlile. And same story there though, forklift right into the truck bed!
Plenty of RVs have rooftop solar panels that'll routinely travel at 65 mph into a 35 mph headwind with no trouble. They're mounted with just plenty of little L-brackets screwed into essentially a plywood roof. Usually an RV roof has lightweight metal struts underneath for load support, but that's not what the solar panels mount to, that's mostly to carry the weight of a person standing on the roof. Never heard anyone have wind shear issues, the only trouble the L-brackets cause is water intrusion when the caulk ages and fails.
Solar panel weighs like 50 lbs. Think of it as a sheet of plywood. Not only do have to support the weight but have to worry about the wind load.
You can use wood, but then you have buy good amount of treated lumber and put it together. Galvanized steel also lasts longer than wood.
My impression is that galvanized steel fences are cheaper than wood ones. Even using steel posts and wood panels. People make wooden fences cause prefer the look.
Yep, snow load is a concern, but they’re mounted at a high angle due to our latitude. That does however increase wind load, and we’re located in somewhat of a gulley that funnels wind. I saw a friend’s professionally installed ground mount buckle under a failed piece of strut so figured I’d splurge for stronger stuff where possible, especially since I’m DIYing it and looking forward to the tax credit, reducing costs to match.
Some very rough numbers from memory:
- 20 panel + 10 microinverter bundle: $5600
- cost to ship the bundle: $700
- conductor: $450
- steel/pvc conduit for conductor sheath: $350
- strut for racking: $500
- 3” steel conduit for ground mount: $5000
- concrete and tube forms for vertical post footers: $400
- augur/trencher rental: $500
- brackets/fasteners: $600
- tools: $500
- electrician work to upgrade service panel: $2500
- electrician work for hookup and disconnect install: still TBD but I’m guessing more thousands
- time spent x my current hourly salary as a programmer: I don’t want to think about it haha
Probably a bunch of stupid little stuff I’m forgetting. Just gas to go on supply runs is probably over $100, although I always tried to batch runs with other normal errands.
The most expensive parts of projects can be surprising, at least to me. I also recently invested in my own fuel transfer pump to transport home heating fuel instead of paying for delivery. 55 gallon drums: $20 each. Pump: $200. But the most expensive part was actually the 15 meters of arctic grade fuel hose at over $400.