If you follow the things that have been disclosed / leaked/ confirmed when they’re 20+ years out of date, then yes the probability this is true is significant.
I recall there being a little more substance to it at the time. But looking back from where we are now, that is a succinct way of describing its results.
Bit of a clarification after reading the article - that article demonstrates a pure-Ruby implementation [0] outperforming a C extension [1], which is not what I had originally expected when first clicking on the link.
We've been able to track eye movement across a computer screen for a good 5 years to be able to see what their gaze is set to, providing heatmaps and dwell metrics.
Someone just needs to put that in a car. We've also got lidar based cruise control systems to maintain distance as well as panic brake systems that can react to something in front of the vehicle faster than a human, which is partially there to account for people texting and driving while flying up on a red light with stopped traffic.
We have all the tech needed to make it damn near impossible for a 2 ton mass of steal to just unflinchingly mow someone down, yet we live in a world where it's cheaper to not make those things standard, even knowing without it, more people will die than with it.
or, just being empathetic to the guilt the driver must be feeling, as well as the lifelong ptsd they get to look forward to carrying the memories of taking someone's life
or, just, generally being a good human, esp when it matters, in times like these, instead of only when things are going well, then dropping that whenever something bad happens when it's more impactful and important to stay a good human.
I'd wager that the driver isn't feeling much guilt or PTSD. A lot of these kinds of blatant bad actors seem wholly disconnected from the concept of self accountability. Otherwise, they tend to get knocked down a few pegs before such a serious incident.
You have no idea what they are feeling. Regardless of if they feel anything now, things like taking a life have a habit of sneaking up on you later down the line, often when you least expect it.
We live in a timeline where Apple reinvented Windows Vista's Aero and thought it was innovative. Next they will bring in spinning cube 3d desktop switching effects like the gnome 2 days of yesterdecade
you're putting pressure into a system filled with a fluid that does not compress, and air, which compresses a lot. The procedure for getting the air out of any system is pump the pedal, crack the bleeder, tighten, pump until you have pedal, repeat until no air comes out of the bleeder.
you can get fancy with a vacuum too but one person on the pedal pumping and one person on the bleeder, you'll get all the air out.
if you've been working on cars since the 70s, you'd know that what you're saying about "the usual pumping the clutch and cracking the bleeder valve process" being bad is nonsense. If you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder good enough, you're going to be bleeding things for awhile. Also, if you're dealing with abs, junction blocks, or bleeding wheels out of order you're going to be there awhile.
clutch systems are a single line going from a mc to a hydraulic fork actuator. They take a whole 10 minutes to bleed starting from bone dry and you don't need to tap the air out, that what bleeding them is doing
I follow all the recommended bleeding procedures for the assembly and since I did not want to remove the assembly from the vehicle to enable burping it, I improvised with the back massager, hoping to speed the process.
>you're putting pressure into a system filled with a fluid that does not compress, and air, which compresses a lot. The procedure for getting the air out of any system is pump the pedal, crack the bleeder, tighten, pump until you have pedal, repeat until no air comes out of the bleeder.
I agree that this is SOP for bleeding hydraulic systems. Been there, done that.
>you can get fancy with a vacuum too but one person on the pedal pumping and one person on the bleeder, you'll get all the air out.
In normal practice this also works. Many times though I am a one man band and I'm not bendy enough any more to be able to keep the pedal depressed with one leg while I contort and stretch over to the bleeder so I have resorted to using a section of PVC cut to length so that it can be jammed into the front of the seat base after rapidly pumping the pedal - holding the pedal at the floor, thus freeing the rest of my body to navigate to the bleeder.
>if you've been working on cars since the 70s, you'd know that what you're saying about "the usual pumping the clutch and cracking the bleeder valve process" being bad is nonsense. If you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder good enough, you're going to be bleeding things for awhile. Also, if you're dealing with abs, junction blocks, or bleeding wheels out of order you're going to be there awhile.
Like I said I have been turning wrenches since the late 1970's. Insinuating that I don't understand the process or problem well enough sounds powerful and righteous on your end but comes off as an unnecessary personal attack on my end. I've maintained foreign and domestically produced automobiles manufactured during the period from 1934-2022 including teaching myself troubleshooting of electronics and sensor-driven vehicles; heavy equipment on drilling rigs including mud pumps, air and hydraulic compressors, shakers, sniffers, MWD tools, LWD tools, downhole logging tools including electronics; backhoes, bulldozers, maintainers, dump trucks, water hauling trucks including air brake systems, jackhammers and compressors; small gasoline and diesel engines on yard tools and heliportable drilling rigs; rebuilt gasoline and diesel engines from a short block to an operating engine as a night mechanic for a seismic crew. I haven't done everything and I have no official certs but I have more diverse experience than most techs will get because I never walked away from an opportunity to tear something down to see how it worked. I'm pretty sure I understand the situation with this master cylinder system and like I mentioned, I followed the manufacturer recommended procedure for bench bleeding and when that didn't work I improvised. It didn't work because there was a bad o-ring in the master cylinder check valve that allowed air into the system whether it was on the bench or in the vehicle.
>clutch systems are a single line going from a mc to a hydraulic fork actuator. They take a whole 10 minutes to bleed starting from bone dry and you don't need to tap the air out, that what bleeding them is doing
I do not disagree with anything that you have said here but will leave this bench bleeding video [0] link for your own amusement. The fun starts at 4:31 in the video link. In my process, I substituted a back massager with a length of PVC pipe for the screwdriver since the master cylinder assembly was still installed in the vehicle. Prior to this, I bent or twisted the components so that it would be easier for air to flow up and out past anything that would normally be a trap.
ps, if you haven't annihilated your syncros, you can 100% shift without the clutch, just "burp the throttle" when you want to shift, meaning, let off the gas, change gears, back on the gas.
shifting up anyway.
downshifting is another story, as is starting from a stop, though I've had good luck with a disabled neutral safety switch and stopping in neutral, turning the car off, pop into 1st, start when the light turns. Hell on the starter and battery, but sometimes it's the only option.
Thanks for this additional reply. Pulling a vacuum from the bleeder screw may be problematic since air can be pulled past the bleeder screws and you might not ever achieve a vacuum there unless you can install an open port in place of the bleeder screw and attach your MityVac or other tool to that port. I pulled vacuum at the reservoir end as was recommended in several forums and videos. It did pull air up to the reservoir but without straightening all the kinks in the system that act as traps it could not evacuate all the air. I spent multiple hours at 25 psi and never successfully bled the system. In theory it should work great though.
I'm a longtime manual transmission driving speed-shifter with broad experience push-starting or roll-starting vehicles with dead batteries or other problems. I have even had one automatic transmission vehicle that could be started by putting the transmission into forward or reverse gear and turning the key so that the starter bendix drive pinion gear would engage and rotate the flywheel until it cranked the engine. Gasoline engine - 283 cubic inch Chevrolet with a PowerGlide transmission behind it. This was in a 1946 Chevy PU that had no top speed that I ever found. It would go faster until your own common sense took over.
Downshifting and upshifting by RPM are useful skills for anyone driving a vehicle with a manual transmission. Catching the point where your RPMs allow you to slip into a lower gear takes a little practice. You should do like I did and refine your skills in an old Ford dump truck with dicey hydraulic brakes, one headlight bulb, no windshield wipers, and a 6 cubic yard load of crushed limestone in the dump bed. It's more fun that way.
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