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arduino's response to the discourse is here:

https://blog.arduino.cc/2025/11/21/the-arduino-terms-of-serv...


I don't trust that reply.

I'm not saying the person(s) who wrote that is(are) lying. It's just that it doesn't seem to come from someone with authority to make decisions like that or even from someone well informed about the global strategy of the corporation.

To me "Arduino Team" is just a bunch of hopeful or even naive employees.


Your comment is/was getting downvoted perhaps because of the last line but this is very true:

> It's just that it doesn't seem to come from someone with authority to make decisions like that or even from someone well informed about the global strategy of the corporation.

Arduino is owned by Qualcomm, Qualcomm is known for being litigious. Whoever wrote that note, unless it was the CEO of Qualcomm, doesn't actually call the shots and if tomorrow the directive comes from above to sue makers they will have to comply.


I mean even if it came from the CEO he could change his mind tomorrow.

It's maybe better to look at incentives, something that blog posts can help illustrate. Does Qualcomm want to mine the maker community for IP or get them to adopt its technology?


> I mean even if it came from the CEO he could change his mind tomorrow.

To a point. Public statements do carry some legal weight, due to the principle of "Promissory Estoppel"[1]. There are limits to that though, but it's not nothing.

[1]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Estoppel#Promissory_estoppel


funny result of this is that GPT5 doesn't understand the modern meaning of Vibe Coding (maximising llm code generation), it thinks it "a state where coding feels effortless, playful, and visually satisfying" and offers more content around adjusting IDE settings, and templating.


Maybe this is a weird thing to focus on but the chart they show on their device how on earth is server costs their top expense as a company?


that's probably a problem with your dimmer switch, not the bulbs.


Explain. Isn't a dimmer switch just a variable resistor? Do you need fancy dimmer switches if you want them to work with LED bulbs?


Old-school dimmer switches were rheostats, and they got hot.

Pretty much all dimmers now are TRIAC-based, which is a semiconductor that turns on partway through the AC wave, then turns off at the next zero-crossing, repeat. It chops the waveform so the light only gets power for a fraction of the time.

An incandescent bulb works largely the same with either type. (You may hear the filament "sing" on a TRIAC dimmer since the fast-rising waveform edge has a lot of harmonic content, but this is usually very faint.)

LED bulbs are non-dimmable by default. The typical job of a power supply is to ignore variations in the source and deliver uniform power to the load, and that's just what they do, driving the emitters at a constant brightness regardless of what the dimmer does, until it's letting through so little power that the poor thing just shuts off. Or flickers madly.

Dimmable LED bulbs are actually super tricky, because the power supply has to measure the distortions in the incoming waveform, interpret that as a dimming command, and use that to control the output to the emitters. Any jitter in the measurement sampling means the resulting brightness will bounce around. Any jitter in the waveform, which an incandescent might've ignored as long as the area-under-the-curve was equal, might be picked up by the LED power supply and misinterpreted as a changing dimming level.

It all sucks and we should abandon it immediately. LEDs should be driven with DC. But there's an awful lot of installed fixtures to keep us from that utopia.


> LEDs should be driven with DC. But there's an awful lot of installed fixtures to keep us from that utopia.

Every LED luminaire or lamp already has a DC inverter inside of it.

Also, you can get (158) 28w 2x4 LED fixtures on a single 277V 20A circuit with #12 wire, DC lighting branch is never going to happen. For reference, that will light about 12,000 square feet of space assuming 9’ AFF for ceiling height.


Not 100% sure of the details but I think it’s more like a digital pwm system.

I had dimmers installed when we rewired our house and I thought they were rubbish. Replaced those with Varilight v-pro and they were noisy. Discovered that I could switch between leading edge and trailing edge modes (or something like that) and the sound went away. Love them now.


If a dimmer switch were a resistor, it wouldn't work at all with LED lights (the AC->DC converters in them don't just lower the current they provide when the AC input gets lower).

In incandescent lights, a variable resistor would burn a lot of power unnecessarily, so instead they use phase cut dimming (with a triac switch) where the dimmer cuts out a variable portion of the AC cycle. That way you reduce the effective duty cycle of the power without burning the energy. This works well for incandescents because the filament glow scales nicely with the with the power being delivered to the bulb. It works poorly with (some) LED bulbs because the turn on/off time is slow relative to the power cycle, and the LED brightness itself doesn't just scale nicely with the current from the rectifier.


A dimmer is either a "phase-cut" device, either (commonly) forward-phase/leading-edge or (less commonly) reverse-phase/trailing-edge. At all times, it's either on or off, and it cycles between on and off once per half wave, so it produces 120 pulses per second. A good-quality light fixture will smooth out that waveform and produce approximately constant output.

The worst choice is a no-neutral-required forward-phase dimmer. Neutral-required forward-phase dimmers are usually better. Reverse-phase dimmers can be excellent for LEDs (but disastrous for magnetic transformers) and always require neutrals. Some dimmers can operate in both modes.


There's differences. e.g. MOSFET vs TRIAC

Zooz (popular zwave manufacturer) has some interesting tidbits on their homepage.

https://www.support.getzooz.com/kb/article/1103-zen72-vs-zen...

"The ZEN77 Dimmer is recommended for 3-way and 4-way installations since you won't need to rewire your other switches in the set-up, you can simply replace the main switch with direct connection to power with the ZEN77 dimmer.

This model can control up to 100 Watts of LED bulbs but we don't recommend using it in installations with chandeliers or large groups of lights over 6 bulbs. Version 1.0 and 2.0 of the ZEN77 (700 series Z-Wave chip) were MOSFET dimmers so if your bulbs work better with trailing-edge (or reverse-phase) drivers, those versions of the model worked best. Version 3.0 of the ZEN77 (700 series Z-Wave chip) is now a TRIAC dimmer so if your bulbs work better with leading-edge drivers, this model will work better. The 800 series version of the ZEN77 is also a TRIAC dimmer. Why We Changed to all TRIAC: We found that newer LED bulbs dimmed better with TRIAC dimmers, and considering limited availability for MOSFETS, we decided to transfer the ZEN77 model to TRIAC as well."


A dimmer switch for an LED light is different from a dimmer switch for a non-LED light. If you try to use an LED light with a “normal” dimmer, it won’t work well.


I recently picked up a monitor light and the change is huge, I wish I did it sooner. My rule of thumb is that I obviously don't point lights in my eyes, only on camera. no overhead light, but lamps are great because they direct light away from you and bounce it around the surfaces of the room.


I also found a monitor light to be a great addition.


Do you get many people thinking this product is snakeoil?


I wish there were more!

There is a ton of snake oil in the industry, and I see so many people building similar products, that take the language of the research papers, and apply it to absolute nonsense.

There is over a decade of research in slow-wave enhancement, Philips funds a lot of research in this space, and even had a slow-wave enhancement device out in 2018/2019.

I'm not sure if what you are asking is "are we snake oil", or "do I get people asking". But in general, I hear so many people talk about grounding mats (no scientific evidence), EMF, neuromodulation to put you to sleep instantly, and so much other garbage, that I wish people would question things more.

I wish people knew how to read a basic research paper and decide if it even says what the company is claiming. I'm amazed that a company can put up a page that says "science", with a picture of a person in a lab coat, and people go "ok, must be true".

We're on a long view of this, and while VCs are dumping tens of millions into snake oil "neuromodulation" companies, we're taking a slower approach and playing the long-term game.

I'm keen to hear your thoughts.


I've almost never cared about learning about rss before but seeing the response it alsways gets, I decided I'd try feedly on my phone and add this blog to it.

Feedly asks for a url, this site makes me download a .bin file. It doesn't make sense how this is my first user experience. I can assume I'm supposed to copy the url in the link? But it is a nav item on the site.

Call me nieve or whatever you like but with ux like this I can start to see how this technology has become less popular.


> I can assume I'm supposed to copy the url in the link? But its nav item on the site.

In feedly and many readers, you can just enter the website URL and it'll find the feed(s) automatically if present.

But in general, how RSS work, you copy the URL to the RSS feed and give it to Reader to subscribe/follow the website. https://reedybear.bearblog.dev/feed/

When the author publishes a new piece, they update the file located at this URL and your reader will fetch you the new content.


Why don't you use a feed reader that just have you input the URL? I use News Explorer and I just paste in the RSS URL. Heck, some even just let you paste in the root URL of the site and they find the RSS link for you.

Feedly is a huge beast besides just an RSS reader. Try something lightweight.


I believe browsers, for some conspiratorial reason, actively sabotaged RSS and RSS support in their browsers. Might even be as simple as under the table deals from scumbag ad companies.


You know that is not in the spirit of the website. They were taken advantage of.


Old mate probably doesn't know, as a lot of people have been conditioned that if its online it's free.


I don't think this means it has no value as an item, it may be totally useless in 10 years but collectors would want it, but there is humour in the idea that a $17 000 watch could be totally repairable by the people who made it.


As far as the android app goes I disagree. While there are minor improvements, there are major steps backwards in offline playing, library management and account management. An entirely frustrating experience trying to use the app.


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